Monday, September 2, 2019

Cross Stitch Project Bag



Here's a basic how-to for this simple project bag, perfect for counted cross stitch!
Finished size:  13" high x 14" wide



I couldn't resist stitching one out of this cute camper fabric in preparation for stitching Lori Holt's Happy Camper counted cross stitch pattern!






  I decided to use ByAnnie's Soft and Stable foam stabilizer to give it a bit more structure,
and I wanted to round my corners to reduce wear.  I changed out the dimensions a bit so that it would be the perfect size for an 8-1/2" x 11" counted cross stitch chart, as well as supplies for a project.




Supplies needed:
  • Fabric:
    • fat quarter - one for front (visible through vinyl)
    • fat quarter - one for back, contrasting bands on front, and zipper pull
    • 1/2 yard for binding
  • Shape Flex 101 fusible interfacing: 3-1/2" x 15"
  • ByAnnie's Soft & Stable: 14-1/2" by 15-1/2" 
  • Zipper: nylon zipper 16" or longer
  • Thread in neutral shade to match fabric (I used Aurifil, but So Fine would be a good choice as well.)
  • 1/4" Wash Away Wonder Tape (for basting zipper)
  • Clover Wonder Clips
  • 1/2" Bias Tape Maker
  • Fray Check

Cut fabric:
  • Front (visible through vinyl): 14-1/2" high x 15-1/2" wide
  • Backing fabric:
    • back: 14-1/2" high x 15-1/2" wide
    • top band -  3-1/2" high x 15" wide
    • binding for top of vinyl: 2-1/2" x 15" 
    • zipper pull:  1" x 10"
  • Bias binding: cut 2 strips 2-1/4" wide x width of fabric, cut on bias
  • Vinyl: 11 x 14-1/2"
Machine quilt:
  • Sandwich the backing fabric, Soft & Stable, and front fabric; pin to hold layers.
  • Machine quilt as desired.  (I used a walking foot and stitched a cross-hatch design 1-1/4" apart; then I went back and stitched another line of stitches1/4" to the right of each line of stitching.)
  • Trim quilted piece to 13" high x 14" wide.
Prepare top band:
  • Fuse interfacing to the back of the 3-1/2" x 15" backing fabric following manufacturer's instructions; fold in half lengthwise and press to create band for top of zipper.
Prepare vinyl:
  • Pin 2-1/2 x 15" strip of quilting cotton in half lengthwise to create binding for top of vinyl.
  • Clip binding to top of vinyl using Wonder Clips.  Stitch to vinyl using a 3/8" seam.  (You may need to use a teflon foot if you find the vinyl sticks.)
  • Wrap binding to back of vinyl and top stitch close to binding fold.
Install zipper:
  • Using Wonder Tape, adhere fold of top band to zipper along stitching line, centering band lengthwise.  Top stitch band to zipper close to fold using a zipper foot.  (If using a handbag zipper, you can use a 1/4" patchwork foot in place of zipper foot.)
  • Do the same thing with the vinyl section.
Finishing:
  • Layer zippered vinyl front section over quilted sandwich; trim zipper vinyl section as needed.  ***Be sure to slide zipper tab in before trimming!
  • Clip layers together and stitch 1/8" from edge.
  • Round corners using a 2-1/2" round object; stitch again 1/8" from edge.
  • Bind edges with bias binding.
  • Stitch zipper pull using 1/2" bias tape maker.  Slide through zipper tab and stitch to secure.  Cut ends on diagonal and apply a bit of Fray Check to prevent fraying.




    I want to play around with some other sizes, but this is a good start for now.  
    The current counted cross stitch craze has totally sucked me in, so I'm sure I'll be stitching some more bags for additional projects!






    Saturday, April 27, 2019

    Zipper Tab Tutorial




    This is my technique for neatly covering zipper ends with zipper tabs for zip pouches!  


    I use this same technique for pillows too, especially if the pillow doesn't have binding or has more of a modern esthetic to it.  There are tons of tutorials already out there, but everyone's measurements and techniques are slightly different, so I decided it was time to document my own method, both for you and for me!



    First of all, I always start with a zipper long enough that both metal stops extend beyond the body of the pouch.  It's so much easier!  This way you don't have to worry about accidentally hitting one of the metal stops with your machine needle, potentially breaking the needle or messing up the timing on your machine.  In fact, I keep a supply of 14" zippers on hand from an Etsy shop called Zipit (one in every color they carry!) so that I always have a zipper to choose from.  Occasionally I need a longer zipper, especially for pillows, but 14" is almost always long enough when it comes to zip pouches. Then, from time to time I simply order replacement zippers for the zippers I used up from my supply.



    OK, here's how to go about it!
    Slice off the metal bottom stop with a rotary cutter.  (I have a rotary cutter designated for paper and zipper cutting.)



    Now trim down the other end of the zipper so that the length of the zipper tape is 3/4" shorter than the length of the unfinished pouch piece.



    But, be sure to slide the zipper tab in before slicing so that it doesn't get cut off!



    This is what your trimmed down zipper should look like.



    To make the fabric-covered zipper tabs, cut a strip of fabric 1-1/2" x 4".
    Press in half lengthwise.



    Open fabric strip up, fold lengthwise edges into the center, and press again.



    Fold and press one more time.



    Cut pressed strip in half, yielding two tabs.



    Slip zipper into the tab, making sure the end of the zipper is the whole way in and butted up against the folded edge.  Pin.


    Repeat on other end of zipper.



    Carefully topstitch through all layers.  Don't stitch too close to the edge of the fabric fold, or you will run the risk of not catching the under layers of the tab.



    The extra length of the fabric makes it easier to stitch a tidy seam, especially those first few stitches.



    Trim off excess fabric even with the edges of the zipper tape.



    If you were careful about slipping your zipper the whole way into the tab, your covered zipper should still be 1/4 - 3/8" shorter than your unfinished pouch piece on both ends.



    Now you can insert your zipper!  




    You will need to use a zipper foot to install the zipper into the pouch.
    If you are using a Bernina zipper foot, simply move your needle the whole way over and line the edge of the foot up against the edge of the zipper tape and stitch.
    You can hand baste your zipper if you like, but careful pinning is usually sufficient.


    Then, I overcast the raw edge, along with the zipper, with a zig zag stitch.  It makes for a nice finish when you peek into the pouch.



    And last, 
     topstitch along the zipper from the outside.



    To finish the pouch, open up the zipper (important - or you won't be able to turn your pouch right side out!), pin right sides together, stitch sides and bottom with a 1/4" seam, and overcast the edges with a zig zag stitch.  Then, turn pouch right side out and you're finished!



    And that's it!
    Don't forget to add a tag, of course!
    :)

    Wednesday, January 9, 2019

    Mini Barn Quilts - Tips and Tricks


    Woo Hoo, I did it - I finally tackled painting a mini barn quilt!



    First of all, a huge shout out to Julia Davis @redrainbootshandmade - I've been in love with her barn quilts ever since first stumbling across them on Instagram.  I've oogled them, missed several of her sales, then was absolutely thrilled to finally snag this beauty last fall.  I was so in love with it (and still am!).  After it arrived in the mail, I carefully carted it around and showed it to anyone who would give me the me the time of day - ha ha!



    And let me tell you, even though these are not terribly difficult to make, hers are a steal and beautifully done, without any effort on your part whatsoever - just saying!  :)  If you follow her feed on Instagram, she announces her sales ahead of time, and you can order one of your very own from her!

    But, if you would like to try making one of your own, this is how I went about it.  I had been wanting to try my hand at this for the longest time.  And, even after reading numerous blog posts, etc., I was still a little unsure of what would be the best way.  Purchasing Julia's and seeing hers up close gave me the courage to try my hand at it.  

    I'm still playing around with the best how to's, but this will at least get you started.


    Here's my version!!

    I went with the same size as Julia's - 11" square.  That size works perfectly; with a 1/2" border on all sides, you end up with a 10" square for your design, which allows you to easily graph out 2" or 2-1/2" blocks.

    I had created a Mini Barn Quilt Pinterest board of design possibilities and had been collecting images for quite a while.  So, when I was ready to get started, I simply picked what I thought might be the easiest design.  (If you take a look at my Pinterest board or Julia's Instagram feed, you'll see that Julia has a lot of beautiful designs!)



    First of all, I was stumped as to what kind of wood to use.  I was concerned that plywood wouldn't have nice, smooth edges on all four sides, so I went with MDF board (Medium-Density Fiberboard).  It's economical; I purchased a 4x4' sheet of 3/4" MDF from my local lumberyard for $16.59 and had them cut it into 11" squares.  One 4x4' sheet yielded sixteen 11" squares - not bad!  The 11" size vs. 12" allowed for the "kerf" (the width needed for the saw cuts).  After sanding the edges and corners with some 120 grit sandpaper and wiping down with a Norwex EnviroCloth, everything was nice and smooth and ready for paint.

    The next question - what kind of paint works best??  
    First of all, if you want to display your barn quilt outdoors, I'm guessing you'll need to use plywood vs. MDF, since MDF probably isn't very weather resistant unless sealed properly.  And, you'll want to make sure you paint both the front and back or your board to protect it.  Also, you'll need to use an exterior paint that already contains UV protectants.  But for indoor use, you can pretty much use whatever paint you want.


    You'll definitely want to prime the MDF board before applying any paint; the primer seals the board for you, and without it, your paint will just soak into the board.  I used one coat of Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer without any tint added.



    Then as far as the actual paint, I went to the paint department at a local hardware store and asked for the smallest quantity of paint available since it doesn't take much paint, especially for the accent color.  A 15.5 oz. can of sample paint for about $5 was perfect.  It came in satin finish only, so I then purchased a quart of satin-finish paint in an off-white color (my background color), but I could have purchased just a sample can for that part as well.  I think I would have been happier with a little less sheen, but in the end it wasn't that big of a deal.



    Next question - what kind of brush should I use?  Since my boards were small and there were lots of triangles involved, I opted to go with angled paint brushes I had on hand vs. disposable foam brushes, especially I had invested in good quality brushes a number of years ago when I was painting my window sashings, and I'm always aiming for a zero footprint.  :)  I used a 2" brush for priming and painting the background color, and a 1" brush for the sides of the boards and the accent color.  I guess I could have used a paint roller for the primer and background color, but didn't want to mess with all that.  I have to confess - I really do NOT enjoy the mess of painting!!  :)



    I would recommend priming your board a day ahead of time.  And, if you can, I would then paint the background color, and give it another day to dry.  But of course, I was making these at the last minute for Christmas gifts and had to finish them in one day, so that's not how I went about it - ha ha!  One coat of primer and one coat of the background color seemed to be sufficient, but if you are doing a dark background color, you may need to use a tinted primer or use two coats of background color.  Canned goods worked nicely to set them on while drying.  :)





    The next step is choosing a design and then marking your boards.  I chose two 4 x 4 block designs and one 5 x 5.   I sketched them out on graph paper, but you can simply refer to a photo.  



    I then marked a grid of dots on the board with a pencil, starting 1/2" from the edge.  




    I marked my dots 2-1/2" apart for the 4 x 4 block design, and 2" apart for the 5 x 5 block.  If you are using a larger board, you may want to draw lines, but the dots are more than sufficient for this size.  And, if you are only drawing dots, you don't have to worry about any lines showing after you are finished.  That's probably not a big deal on a large barn quilt that would be viewed from a distance, but they would likely show on something that would be viewed up close.



    Next part is taping off your design.  Be sure to use the green FrogTape; it will give you crisp lines and yield the best results vs. using blue painters tape.  You'll probably end up with some bleeding if you use the blue tape.



    First, tape off the outer 1/2" border.



    Make sure you can still see your dots.



    Then, it's simply a matter of taping off each section, painting it, and making sure it's dry before moving on to the next section.  Be sure to rub the tape down along the edge so that it is firmly adhered, and be careful not to stretch it.  That way no paint will seep under the tape  I made sure all my brush strokes were going in the same direction (at least for the most part!).  And, I used just enough paint for coverage, but not too much that it took extra time to dry.  The secret is using a hair dryer to dry the paint so you can move on to the next section - works like a charm!

    BUT, be careful and double check yourself after taping and before painting - it's easy to get confused and paint the wrong square.  Trust me - I did it several times!!  It's not the end of the world, but a mistake will slow you down, and will mean a bit of sanding and repainting so that it isn't too obvious.

    It's always good if you can allow a few days for the paint to cure before wrapping, gifting, or hanging.


    I like the look of distressed edges like Julia did, 


    ... so after the paint had completely dried, I sanded the edges a bit with 60 grit sandpaper.




    I added a sawtooth picture hanger on the back.  



    And, then a signature, of course.  :)
    (I definitely need to come up with a way to keep the back from being so messy!)



    And, that's all there is to it!

    I'm still hoping to do a larger barn quilt for the back of my garage, and I think I now feel comfortable tackling that project.  Whether I ever get around do doing it is another story entirely!  :)